The Smith: Undeniable Proof that Fancy is Overrated

My dear friend was up from North Carolina this weekend before heading to Southern Spain for 6 months, and second to seeing all of us, she was more than jazzed about having dinner at The Smith. She spoke nearly ad nauseum about it, raving about the gnocchi (“no-key”, in her unflappable southern accent). When we arrived at the cozy east village eatery, they had just opened all of their doors to allow the freshly-cooled-by-an-afternoon-storm air to waft in over the no-muss wooden tables and no-fuss patrons. Perfect in its simplicity, the atmosphere exudes what the menu offers: wonderful, rustic dishes that don’t try to be too fancy, but satisfy to the core. It is the perfect spot for the nearby NYU dorm residents who might be hankering for some home cooking from mum, and also great for those, like me, who need a break from the cutting edge cuisine that New York always has to offer, in favor of returning to the roots of it all.


Never one to turn them down, the blue point oysters on the half-shell were impeccable, and were they a bit less inherently pricey, I likely would have gotten a couple more orders and called it a day (as I often have with other mollusk enthusiasts). Ms. Dawson’s Fork and Knife Ceasar came in my favorite configuration: a wedge of romaine, dressing poured over, steak knife provided to carve as you wish.

Using the visit as an excuse for indulgence, we opted for Grandpa’s Rigatoni, cooked to the perfect al’ dente with a spicy pulled pork ragout, and the Ricotta Gnocchi (sautéed in butter to the perfect outer crisp) in a truffle cream sauce. Both dishes lent themselves perfectly to the sopping of our bread, wrapped like a candy in wax paper. I was so refreshed to be done without feeling like I needed to head off for a nap, the portions are truly perfect. My Hendrix and tonic was total perfection, and we ended up staying for another drink at the bar while our friends trickled in for a sip and a chat.

All in all, I wish I could find a place like this in my neighborhood. I will definitely be going back often, good friends in tow.